The Eye Magazine rated this place as extraordinary, but the Toronto Life used to give it mixed reviews, before finally rating it one of Toronto’s Best New Restaurants in 2007. So Quince is one of the must-try places, being a Mediterranean-inspired bistro where prices are reasonable and tastes are fresh and innovative. The founders of Quince are Jennifer Gittins and Michael van den Winkel, a husband and wife once known from the high-valued Stork on the Roof. Their new place, opened in fall of 2006, is located only a couple blocks south of the busy intersection at Yonge and Eglinton.
Do you know where the infamous nudie bar Cheaters used to be? Well, Quince is right across the street from there, surrounded by a beautiful patio decorated with teak furniture and a lot of of cushions in bright, primary colours. Don’t be alarmed by the neon sign proclaiming “Adult video & Novelties” just two doors down from Quince and next to the famous place Coquine, however shocking it may look in a neighbourhood touted for its blossoming business district and family-friendly parks. But in the latest twenty-five years, there has always been an disparate mix of places on this stretch of Yonge Street between Eglinton and Davisville. Clothing shops, bead and paper shops, home decor, but also adult venues – all this can be found around here.
We are warmly welcomed at Quince’s door by the hostess, who offers us a place near the bar on low, cushioned banquettes. Pleading excessive height, we’re offered a choice of tables, which is a nice surprise for a Saturday night in this lively neighbourhood. “What’s downstairs?” I ask. “Oh, that’s our private dining room,” our hostess answers. Available for lunch and dinner and offering its own bar and lounge, the nice space is elegantly decorated (though the tile floor is a tell that you’re in the basement). This place can host corporate or private groups of diners up to 40 people or cocktail receptions of up to 70 people. You can get a recommended menu along with matching wines, showing that the personnel takes care of all the details.
Our waiter is arriving with a short list of specials, just a moment after we have chosen our table. A short list of specials is completed with a long description of ingredients and how the meals are prepared and how they are going to work together. He apparently knows his stuff, not referring to his notebook as he pauses to explain what is a garnish vs. what is available on the side. The waiter could be best described as neat, friendly and efficient. Left alone to decide whether a whole sea bream (“Most people choose a side with it, it’s only the fish,” our waiter cautions apologetically) is a good idea, we take a look around. I notice the smartly designed lighting that enhances the whole space of the dining room and adds lovely warmth to it. The space seems to be noticeably large but still somewhat intimate at the same time. The volume level is very comfortable too – inspite nearly all the tables around us being full, we can easily hear each other and the ambient music (think D’Angelo and Stevie Wonder). The interior is decorated with modern art in earthy colours, gracing the loft-style brick walls and bringing balance to the exposed ductwork, painted in chocolate brown to remove all traces of sterility. Great for voyeurs, a semi-open kitchen offers a glimpse of the wood-fired oven behind the bar. If you are interested to see the rest of our review, see the full Quince restaurant review.
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